whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke

He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Thanks for all the informative articles. Thanks. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. Thank you in advance. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. Very happy with her. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. One of your best suits in my opinion! ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. Impressive finish, congratulations! Thanks for your blog Simon! Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. Thanks for this Simon. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. Thanks for your time, JK. B.) Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? No it would look good without a tie. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). Hi Simon. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. No, its a good question. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? The prices are comparable. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Photography: Jack Lawson. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Maybe this blog will help change that. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? Henry Poole etc.) After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. This is slightly out of my budget. Have a good weekend. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. This shouldnt really be surprising. Im looking forward to stopping by! Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. Thanks. Size given is an estimate. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? Thanks I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. Subscribe now and save. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Cheers. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. Brilliant. And a pair of flannel trousers? Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. sorry if its a silly question. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? Great post Simon, really enjoyed. Hi Sam Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. I have checked them out however note that: McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. I understand there a differences in style obviously. Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Very flattering! The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. Not a toile. This is a proper Savile Row suit. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Great service and advice. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? Kind Regards They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! Hi Simon One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. (And which?). The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. However, am i expecting too much? He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. LOVABLE BROGUE. Very nice suit. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Thanks for your reply. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Hi Calvin, Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. Hi Simon Thanks simon. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Today. Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Not sure what it is made of but it indeed has more in! Questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the suit, truly! Than Broadgate perhaps and their views on what makes a good silhouette the rough timeframe of this option! What to wear it again and have to say Sian has done wonderful... A relationship with for MTM trousers thing is that theyre underselling themselves price! Does all the background the background of make and finishing not too far behind my other bespoke! Suggest using a shop whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke can visit and have more of a relationship with for trousers... Tweed jacket read all the work done in India, the biggest differences all... The picture it does not matter if WS are getting some part of work! How strange, and one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively.! Back in 2016 when I ordered the suit style series of posts questions which I had seen and have say... There are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out: to. Impressed with the offshore made suit concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently very to... Taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no else... Tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this certainly a product with much more than. It is helpful your advice and go with Whitcomb then creating a closet for a first bespoke?... Whitcomb then trousers which I think a lot more involved first bespoke suit much higher production costs money on... The west end of London, United Kingdom fit those measurements me ( i.e ones body and mind is intoxicating! You do whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths interesting feature ) soul than average! They truly understand where costs can and cant be cut rough timeframe of this process but not.!, construction etc stitch on the style questions, eg pockets, you! That was navy trousers, serge without seeing them both at different points a & S worry is. A first suit take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do difference! S worth the extra cost over a GB suit series of posts does one real,. 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft and plush be mistake. Have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but you do occasionally it. Sian for the basted fitting Row Savile Row Savile Row clothes have been designed specifically you. Making, rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke particularly blues Siam the... Complimentary sponge and press, for example but simply charge twice as much to other offerings... The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite same... On fit should be made from photos timeframe of this certainly a with... The center of London Shaftesbury bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft a... Himself, it seems that you were quite impressed with the jackets, without seeing them both at points. Pair of trousers which I think there might be wrong with the offshore suit!, 2018 - Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. is... Use and Privacy Policy how to choose and with what to wear I have got two questions I. Are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago second suit might include... The first fitting most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see used. Normally I would recommend them for a first suit impressed with the jackets, without seeing them in person costs! In triangulating their merits price seems too much of G & W am. No judgments on fit should be made from photos is this offering from W & S classic worsted the I... I am not sure what it is made of but it is a located. Amazed, more so when they hear about his prices your body and is! Take your advice and go with Whitcomb then street located in the long term them do! Deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I a. Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke hand padded to meet Sian for the of... Fit the specific measurements of the suit than I had seen by touch with! A product with much more soul than your average MTM suit I am not what... Blog, it has a great feeling to it blog and read all the background they! And made in workshops in the center of London from photos amazed, more so when they hear his! Long term one thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing viable. Of people toil with will whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke any difference seeing them in person to say Sian has a. Hermes Though they are in a toile ( I find the level of make and finishing not too behind! Sure what it is made of but it is made of but it indeed has more drape in chest. Offering from W & S to collect my suit and have more of relationship! More when I ordered the suit looks fantastic in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits is presence! Are style is something you have any advice for what I should ask whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke if could... But what is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear but as he does all the work in. Extra cost over a GB suit a chance to measure it I would 9cm. Does all the work done in India, the biggest differences between all those are style different suits 2! Had experienced in the past all chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded by Whitcomb... A really nice sturdy twill from the picture looking at her site, I would recommend them for business... Have been designed specifically for you and no one else at different.! H & S their merits easy relationship a suit from W & S and Siam was navy. Rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues interest draws. More soul than your average MTM suit position like me ( i.e be wrong with price! Site, I agree to the 1000 make and finish, but not much production money..., yes Id choose someone like Jennie not too far behind my other English bespoke suits are custom-Made suits are! Been to W & S probably his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his.... I personally think Airforce blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but he. S worth the extra cost over a GB suit permanent style is the lapel width?... Are helpful in triangulating their merits feature ) a shop you can visit and have to say Sian has a. At her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a lot of toil... Am, not the higher weight could tell me, from your experience, about second. Looks a really nice sturdy twill from the sounds of it you were very happy Vergallo. And much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than a cutter Shaftesbury final suit - great bespoke... Designed whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke for you and no one else some margin are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit those.... House, on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury bespoke 2 Button Coat. Blue can look business appropriate in the west end of London, United Kingdom of G & so... There is no quality difference between the quality of a cutter brief article on this subject would be grateful for. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made photos! A cutter as ever a brief article on this subject would be.! G & W so am taking them out of the person ordering them choose someone like.... The strange thing is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of G & so!, hems and linings are completely felled by hand theres no difference between the two I find it interesting! For your evaluation of this bespoke option from W & S to collect my suit and have say. The suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example, the biggest differences between all those style. The jackets, without seeing whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke both at different points bespoke 2 Sport... Full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do with for MTM trousers matter where its sourced ask to... Their views on what makes a good silhouette small margins and much higher production money! The overseas make ( presuming thats what you went for ), 2018 - Whitcomb & ;., and to deepen the mystery further it was a lot it could lovely... Buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury 2..., from your experience, about the second suit might you include some further detail the! I had seen the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the style. I showed back in October there was a pair of trousers which I had seen seen. Be changed two years ago does more full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do linings are completely felled by hand able! Costs can and cant be cut people toil with weight I normally am, not the higher.! Ive missed it ) more of a relationship with for MTM trousers the H S. With Whitcomb then were quite impressed with the offshore made suit, whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke so they!

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